The best bars in London right now
The Painter's is a lovely place to while away an hour or so, the pale pink onyx of the counter as luminous as Venus in her scallop shell, with cornetto wall lights and the metal Paris Metro-like skylight above holding an intricately rolled Deco chandelier. He collaborated with artist Annie Morris, whose stack sculptures can currently be seen at Yorkshire Sculpture Park but here has doodled animals on the white wall in light grey and created a stained-glass window in wrapping-paper-bright colours. Easy to imagine Jean Harlow draped in white mink here, blowing smoke rings from a cigarette holder and waiting for her close-up. Clean is zero alcohol, which Gen X-ers may want to totally ignore, while others may be intrigued by the May As Well Be a Negroni, which conjures a convincing Campari-style bitterness by mixing Aecorn Bitter, rooibos and balsamic vinegar. Magistretti, from the same page, tastes almost healthy, with tarragon and grapefruit alongside gin and Cocchi. Two real highlights, though, were the twisted Old Fashioned Interpretationsa gilded variation that draws in brown butter, quince and tonka to a mix of two whiskies, and the fragrant Saint Remy Complexa Martini-style serve with quince again, almond blossom and vodka, served with a cherry. Beforethe story of their mini empire was successful, but following a fairly standard path. Business boomed, as locked-down would-be boozers tried to recreate the feeling of visiting an east London bar, in their own kitchens. We tried a Pinot Blanc with a hit of green apple and an unusual Pinot Noir from Andreas Bender that was served chilled.
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